✅ KILLER QUESTIONS to ask a Car Dealer
After 16 years inside the car business—working in sales, and behind the scenes, and actively involved in negotiating both new and used car deals on a daily basis, I’ve seen how dealers use pressure, confusion, and half-truths to rip people off. That’s why I created this list of Killer Questions—it gives you simple, powerful phrases that force dealers to tell the truth or risk breaking the law. – Kevin Hunter
These aren’t just good questions… they’re deal-breakers.
These questions expose forced add-ons, hidden fees, rigged financing, and shady contracts—before you sign anything.
Use this list. Keep it with you. Ask every question out loud. Because once you sign, it’s often too late.
The right question at the right time can save you thousands—literally.
So let’s get started on flipping the script and putting YOU, instead of the dealer, in control of your car deal..
First question, and one of the best questions.
- Is that legally required?
(For add-ons, arbitration agreements, accessories, etc.)
This is a trap-buster question. If the dealer says something must be purchased—like paint protection, VIN etching, gap insurance, or they say you MUST sign things like an arbitration agreement—they risk committing fraud or violating TILA/UDAP laws if it’s not truly required by law. They cannot say it’s required by law when they know it isn’t.
👉 How this question helps:
Puts the burden of legal accuracy on the dealer. If they lie, they create a paper trail of misrepresentation that can lead to rescission or lawsuits.
2. Is that product optional?
Never assume anything is mandatory unless it’s government-required (like tax, registration, or title fees).
Why it matters:
Dealers love to present add-ons like they’re standard or non-removable. But unless it’s state-mandated (like taxes, title fees or emissions), it must be optional.
👉 How it helps:
This question clarifies what’s bundled deceptively, and forces the F&I manager to be honest—or risk violating the FTC Cooling-Off Rule and Tying laws.
3. Can I see that in writing before I sign anything?
Verbal promises mean absolutely nothing. ALWAYS get it on paper.
Why it matters:
Dealers often make verbal promises they don’t honor—like “we’ll fix that after the sale,” or “this rate includes all rebates.” If it’s not in writing, consider it to be worthless.
👉 How it helps:
This legally protects you. If they refuse, they know the claim is false. Written proof is your ultimate proof and defense if you file complaints or seek rescission later.
4. Can I remove this add-on?
If they say no—walk. Add-ons must always be optional.
Why it matters:
If they say “no,” it can be a violation of federal tying regulations and deceptive trade practices. All dealer products must be optional purchases, not required items.
👉 How it helps:
This exposes if the product is being illegally tied to the sale, giving you ammunition to walk—or take legal action if needed.
5. Is that fee a dealer fee or a government fee?
Demand clear separation between legitimate state taxes and fees versus junk dealer fees.
Why it matters:
Dealers often mask junk fees as official. They use words like “processing fee” or “doc fee” to mimic words that sound like government charges.
👉 How it helps:
Creates transparency. If they falsely claim it’s mandatory, they’ve stepped into UDAP territory. And you just caught them.
6. What’s the out-the-door price, including all fees?
Don’t settle for “just the sale price.” You need to always be working with the actual total.
Why it matters:
The sale price means nothing. It’s just the beginning number, but then dealers can stack thousands in fees and packages afterward.
👉 How it helps:
OTD pricing forces honesty and allows real comparisons between dealers. If they can’t give it to you, they’re definitely hiding something. And this is exactly why ouyr car buying coaches work off of OTD pricing, and for those of you having difficulty getting OTD prices, this is exactly why dealers resist doing it. They know they can put themselves into legal jeopardy when they commit to a bottom line number in writing.\.
7. Why is the interest rate higher than what I qualify for?
They may be padding your APR for profit.
✅ Why it’ matters:
This question directly challenges one of the dealership’s biggest profit centers: back-end finance reserve. That’s the hidden spread between the rate the bank approves and the rate the dealer gives you.
Dealers make money by marking up your interest rate—even if you have good credit.
🚨 Real Example:
- Bank approves you for 5.9%
- Dealer sells you the loan at 8.9%
- Dealer pockets the 3% difference over the life of the loan (thousands of dollars)
8. Is there a prepayment penalty on this loan?
Make sure you can pay it off early without extra charges.
Why it matters:
Some shady loans penalize you for paying off early, which traps you in a high-interest situation longer.
👉 How it helps:
Protects your financial freedom and flushes out abusive loan terms that are rarely disclosed upfront.
9. Is that the manufacturer rebate or a dealer discount?
Don’t let them double-count incentives or disguise them as “dealer savings.”
Why it matters:
Dealers double dip, using factory incentives as if they’re offering a discount—while pocketing the incentive.
👉 How it helps:
Forces the dealer to separate factory and dealer contributions. You get a clearer picture of real savings and where the actual discount is coming from. If the dealer can get you to believe that THEY are discounting a vehicle instead of the manufacturer, that misinformation falsely casts the dealer in a more positive light.
10.What lender is this loan through?
Know who you’re actually borrowing from and what rate they offered the dealer.
Why it matters:
Dealers often shop your credit without disclosing which lender they’re using—or how much they’re keeping in reserve.
👉 How it helps:
Reveals hidden rate manipulation and lets you compare the dealer’s offer with direct lenders.
11. Can I see the invoice or dealer cost?
You may not get it—but asking makes them sweat.
Why it matters:
They’ll almost never say yes, but asking applies pressure. It shows you’re an informed buyer.
👉 How it helps:
Even if they say no, it weakens their negotiating stance and shows you’re not falling for MSRP games.
12. What’s the money factor on this lease?
Don’t just ask for monthly payment—know the true cost of leasing.
Why it matters:
Money factor = the interest rate on a lease. Dealers hide this to mask lease padding.
👉 How it helps:
Asking this forces disclosure of the true cost of leasing and blocks a common source of dealer profit.
13.Can I take this contract home and review it first?
Never feel rushed. You’re allowed to read and think before signing.
Why it matters:
They pressure buyers to sign fast so you don’t notice errors or add-ons.
👉 How it helps:
Slows the process. Gives you time to review, or even show it to an attorney or The Homework Guy team before committing.
14. Is this arbitration clause legally optional? Can I strike it out?
Many buyers don’t realize arbitration is often not legally required.
Why it matters:
Arbitration waives your right to sue. Most buyers have no idea they signed this right away.
👉 How it helps:
This question stops forced arbitration, and if they insist it’s required and it’s not legally required, they may be breaking the law in your state. By the way, a common lie told by finance officers is that their banker will not give you financing if you don’t sign the arbitration agreement. This is a huge lie, because the arbitration agreement is between you and the dealer, NOT you and the bank.
15. If I say no to this product, will you still sell me the car?
A “no” here is a red flag for tying violations (illegal in many states).
Why it matters:
If they say no, that’s tying the sale—an illegal act in many states and possibly a federal violation.
👉 How it helps:
A “no” gives you a documented legal opening to file complaints, cancel the sale, or demand a refund.
🧠 Final Tip:
Bring a pen, print off this list, and add your confidence. You don’t need to argue with them—just ask questions, in a calm manner. Their answers will tell you everything you need to know.
“If they push back on these questions, that’s your signal to walk or to file a legal complaint against the dealer.”
Paying attention to how dealers react to these questions. But always ask them , because that’s how smart buyers win. Remember — buying a car is one of the biggest financial decisions you’ll make. Don’t ever let anyone push you or rush you.
Also, if you’d like help from one of our car buying coaches when buying a car, where we do all the work, so you don’t have to, visit our website at thehomeworkguy.com or text me today at 701-441-3399!
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